- June 2017
- May 2017
- April 2017
- March 2017
- February 2017
- November 2016
- September 2016
- August 2016
- June 2016
- May 2016
- April 2016
- March 2016
- February 2016
- January 2016
- November 2015
- October 2015
- August 2015
- July 2015
- June 2015
- February 2015
- January 2015
- November 2014
- October 2013
- September 2013
- February 2013
- December 2012
- October 2012
- August 2012
- July 2012
- June 2012
- May 2012
- April 2012
- March 2012
- February 2012
- January 2012
- December 2011
- November 2011
- October 2011
- September 2011
- August 2011
- July 2011
- June 2011
- May 2011
- Build Log
- Climate Change
- Contest Entry
- Disk Management
- Flames of War
- Model Kits
- PC Hardware
- PC Stuff
- Problem Solving
A lengthy reaction to a friend’s post regarding Libertarian writings regarding how a “mixed economy” results in a “slide towards fascism” – seems worth sharing more broadly:
Edit: this is the article to which I am referring (taken from “The Foundation for Economic Education,” which is a Libertarian think-tank, so if that kind of site makes your skin crawl don’t follow the link.
In reaction to: “But I think there is something to be said about fascist tendencies being inevitable when you grant the State enough power to control private property.” and other such gems…
That is total silliness. According to “Libertarian principles” (I have to choke back a laugh when I say that), the State exists primarily to protect private property. And yet, it cannot do so without having ultimate decisive power over said property in order to establish ownership.
To use the term “mixed economy” as if there was some alternative is just dumb. Outside of Imperial Feudalism wherein every bit of property belongs to the emperor or king, the only thing that can exist is a mixed economy.
This is what I mean by “shallow thinking” in reference to dumb Libertarian canards. No group of people greater than 2 in number can exist without some form of agreed-upon governance (even if “agreed” means “I agree that Thrug makes the rules because Thrug will kill me in my sleep if I disagree with him”).
This isn’t just “political science” – it’s simple biology. A large group of organisms has a set of feedback loops amongst one another. There is no way around that. When looking at, let’s say, ten million organisms, those feedback loops will become rather intricate. With predictable statistical outcomes, you’ll have specialists develop that handle certain tasks better than others (such as predators, scavengers, filter-feeders, dentists, or legislators, who all require very highly-developed skillsets to work successfully).
Libertarians like to prance around pretending a major portion of the system in which they live is superfluous – large parts of government, for example. But they aren’t. To the individual they may be – but to the society as a whole, they are not.
Fascism is the result of too much focus on personal property rights with no *public oversight* (and I mean quite literally PUBLIC oversight – not just an unanswerable government agency, but literally having the public be aware of the situation) of how those rights impact others. It devolves ultimately into the concept that anything can be personal (or state) property – including other humans. And almost any property can be used as a weapon against others, with varying levels of sophistication.
The State *does* have total control over personal property. This isn’t an “it should” argument – it is a statement of fact. There is nothing that a group of people (whatever size) cannot decide to do or not do, hence the State has dictatorial powers by default. What makes a State fascist or liberal or whatever term you choose to apply, depends entirely on the restrictions emplaced upon the State as decided by its populace.
The State always tailors its self-restrictions to those in power. When too much power is accumulated by too few people – such as is the case when the cult of “personal property” gets out of hand and the ownership slides (inevitably) towards a tiny minority, you get fascism or feudalism. Government officials get bought and paid for. Police forces run unchecked. And so on.
Libertarians by and large miss the boat (John J., you appear to be one of the few who grasps this) when recognizing that “personal property” protections enshrine the power base of those very few, and enables those few to exercise or abuse their power against the rest. But that’s a feature of the Libertarian party – it’s why the Koch brothers funded its foundation back in the 70s. They expect the glitzy “freedom” phrasings in the Lib platform to be attractive to smart people who don’t have a lot of time to contemplate the long-term impact of what end up as disastrous policy decisions. They supplied a form of intellectual masturbation – low-thought, ego-stroking behavior – that pulls people in. This is why Mauro S. keeps pointing out that there are no Libertarian nations on the planet – for good reason. Because the Lib platform leads inevitably to fascism and feudalism.
Some planks of the Lib platform are worth pulling out and applying to real governance. Most are not.
What is needed to prevent a totalitarian State is direct and intimate involvement of the governed at all levels. Most in the US are too lazy for this to work. I’d like to call this “as designed”, but it’s really more like “as it happens”. To change this we need to re-install basic civics education, and probably enforce some form of public service requirement (similar to how a lot of WingNuts trumpet enforced military service, I would suggest we widen that a bit and make the military one arm of possible service – others being infrastructure work, local legislative/judicial service, community service, park service, public health, etc.). I won’t get into implementation suggestions, but I will point out that this would be an excellent “transition phase” for people finishing their public education and/or university studies, moving into the “real world” from school.
This would have the effect of getting every last citizen involved with the society and putting effort into it – building a sense of ownership in our country that is sorely absent right now. And a healthy respect for one anothers’ efforts is always a good thing.
Build Log: Part 12
Okay, everyone, I did some fun stuff in the last couple of weeks – some was dirt simple and pretty, some was a little harder and is coming out really great.
First off, let’s bid a fond “see you soon” to the engine nacelles – I’ve trimmed them out and packed them away in a big ziplock to protect them while they wait until I get things ready to apply the decals.
So – the first thing I did since those engines went into the storage area was the recreation deck. This was entirely a photo-etch piece that was originally flat and needed to be folded up. I heated the brass plate on a burner first, to get the springiness out of it. Cutting it free from the sheet involved my trusty little chisel, and then filing away the extra flash.
After this, I applied the HDA Modelworx decal (which looks really nice, by the way – if you look at the rear screen, there’s a shot of the Klingon cruiser from ST:TMP being hit by the V’Ger weapon) and waited for it to set a bit. Folding it up was a simple matter, and then tying it with wire to keep it together while the glue set.
Once the glue was good and the piece was ready, I grabbed some Tamiya 1:350 navy crew (which are great for WW2 models and such at the same scale) and prepped some of those up. I painted the crew up with blue, white, and black uniforms (tan and perhaps red should have gone in there, but these colors gave better contrast with the flesh-tone of the heads and hands). Once their paint was dry, I used tweezers to hold them on their way in – dipped them in CA glue and settled them into the rec-deck so it would look like a small group of crew watching the report on the screen.
I hit it with some matte spray, and once dry (I gave it 24 hours) I parked it with the other finished pieces.
The main deflector/sensor dish!
This part has a remarkably small number of parts (eleven), but as usual I made it a bit more complicated than it would have been. Five of the eleven parts are actually clear, and some of it will need to be painted cleanly in order to look right. I’m also adding a few PE parts, and a light diffuser over the central bulb.
Around the outside of the forward ring are four tiny little thruster panels, each one about half a centimeter square. Inside each of these are two thruster ports, which will be lit from inside with yellow LEDs. To keep those LEDs from spilling their light into the rest of the model, I will create some very small light-boxes which I’ll detail later.
The thruster panels themselves fit really easily into their spaces, and the rest of the parts also fit pretty well together (only the two big rings needed some gap filling – we’ll get to that later). I had originally intended to back-light those thrusters through the plastic of the ring using a Raytheon technique (basically parking the light behind the plastic and letting it shine through), but I thought that would dim the output too much. I figured out where the ports sit, and used a 1mm drill bit to open up the space behind each set of ports.
Next, to make sure we had only the thruster ports lit, I proceeded to light-block them. First step of this was to park the panels on a sprue for spraying with some white tac. Then, drop some liquid mask (Humbrol Maskol on this one) into the ports. I let the mask dry, and then push them all into the white-tack to protect the backs, which would be parked against the ring.
Set the thruster panels aside for a bit.
The kit comes with two choices for the three bulges around the deflector dish (port, starboard, and ventral sides); I picked the ones that looked most like the ST:TMP reference photos. Using polystyrene glue, the three bulges were settled in, and then the PE grilles for them were attached with CA. Then the thruster receiving slots on the ring got some mask (you can cut small panels out of regular masking tape, or something like one of the narrow modeling tapes), and the edges of the edges of the rings where they would need to be glued together. The exterior of these parts got the black primer light-blocking treatment, and then
white Vallejo spray primer as a base coat on top of that. I had to do a couple of coats to get most of the dark out of sight, but in general it was okay. The forward section of the rear ring has a couple of inset rings with recessed canals which don’t take spray paint easily – some corners of it collect a little too much, some not enough. This was easily fixed with a little hand-painting using a thin brush and some regular acrylic white (I’m using Mig “Satin White”, Mig-047 for reference).
Pulling all the masks off, a dry-fit of the parts showed everything was coming together nicely.
The center of the dish comes with a small hole, which is probably a perfect fit for a 3mm LED, but I’m using a 5mm one, and needed to open it up a bit more. Once it fit snugly, I did a quick and painless circuit check, then glued the LED in place with canopy glue. After the canopy glue dried, I used Black Seal over the back of the LED to keep its light where it belonged. I set this assembly aside to rest.
I mentioned earlier that the kit comes with a choice of parts for the three bulges – once the choice is made, there are three extra parts. I used those as the basis for three of the four thruster light-boxes. The fourth was a section of an engine nacelle snipped off of a 1:1000 TOS Enterprise (the 1:1000 models come with multiple choices for the nacelles). I closed off the nacelle section with standard styrene trimmed to fit. A hole in the side of each one made room for the wiring to pass through. Black light-block and gloss silver to add extra internal reflectivity finished them out.
The thruster panels got a yellow overcoat and once that dried, they were glued into the receivers with canopy glue. The rings went together with some polystyrene glue, no worries. I peeled out the mask material from the ports, and re-trimmed with yellow where the mask took some of the overcoat away. A quick check with the battery showed that everything was still working properly, and the ports were shining perfectly.
The wiring for the thrusters had me trimming down the resistors and attaching flexible leads to the positive and negative legs. The 9V battery paid each
one a visit to confirm the wiring was good. Once those were done, they were positioned to shine directly through the ports drilled earlier and CA-glued in place. Time for another battery test, checking to make sure the light came through the ports properly. The boxes were then fixed over the lights with regular polystyrene glue. After this had been allowed to cure, yet another battery test, then Milliput (fine white) was applied all around the light boxes, and over the exposed legs of the circuits (the plastic of the ring between the legs was scored repeatedly with a knife to give the Milliput extra surface to grip). Before it dried, my paranoia set in and I gave it one more battery test. All good. All the thruster leads were then taped together in groups for ease of handling.
Next up, the dish itself. This is a big, clear part with a lot of detail that needs paint. If you look closely at the films, the dish has a ring of lines all the way around, really thin and about 1/3 the circumference of the hemisphere (see the reference photo – you’ll also note if you look really closely there’s an ejection ring on the interior of the studio model’s dish). These lines need to be white. The ejection ring line on the model also needs to be sanded off.
Rather than try to trim masks to fit the lines – because there are soooo many of them and I’m sure I’d screw something up – I cut a bunch of sections of 1mm masking tape and snugged them up against the sides of the lines all the way around. I then made some really short sections of the same tape and pressed them into the gaps at the top and bottom of each line, leaving the lines exposed. Then regular tape was cut and applied around the exposed dish areas. More tape guarded the back from stray blasts. A couple of coats of white primer got the lines covered.
Peeling off all that mask and trimming off the few areas that leaked a little was pretty quick and easy. I re-masked the back of the dish, and the entire front of the dish. Using the 1mm tape, I also masked the outer ring all the way around (the outside ring shines through, as well as the main dish). Dark grey primer went on to light-block the ouside. Once dry, a little extra mask was applied to the forward ring around the dish, and then white Vallejo went on all around the outside. This resulted in the rearward sections being white and the forward section being dark grey – which matches what the reference photos were showing.
Set that aside and let it cure.
The diffuser panel was from HDA, it’s a circular plate about 3mm thick of white plastic. It has a protective paper on both sides that needs to get peeled off before gluing the plate into the dish. It fits fine over the 5mm LED I’m using. Canopy glue it in place and let it cure.
A few little notes:
If you are working without the Paragrafix PE kit, you’re going to note that the outer ring has a pattern of gaps and ring lines all around, wider gaps on the 3-6-9-12 o’clock positions. If I weren’t working with the PE part (which just required a coat of white), then I would have used liquid mask in each gap. The PE saved me from having to deal with this. All is not wine and roses though, because the parts are really tight-fitting (including the PE). That means if you put more than a few coats of paint on it, or one particularly thick coat, the tolerances get too tight and they scrape each other while going on. I had that problem a few times, which took a little time to wait for the paint to cure before sanding the scratch and re-painting with white.
I also discovered that both Army Painter and Vallejo primers use similar solvents, so be really careful if you are going to try to brush on any of the Vallejo white – the solvent will get into both the top coat and the light-blocking layer, and potentially smear it. I also had that problem in one small area. Wait for it to cure, then sand and reapply white over it with the spray can. Vallejo goes on fine over a dry Army Painter and sits very well, it’s just if you have to go back and brush anything with a lacquer or enamel solvent the two will both thin out under it, and result in a big messy splotch.
Back to the model…
While the front dish paint and the canopy glue on the diffuser plate are curing, I took the ring assembly and started filling the small gap that extends all the way around. At first I tried to use canopy glue in a syringe to fill it, wiping the excess away, but I found after applying a fresh coat of white over it that I had left a smeared look around the gap. In the end I pulled it out and replaced it with “Perfect Plastic Putty”, which then required a lot of sanding and filling to get a smooth surface – tough to do on this area.
Soon as the cure was done on the dish and the diffuser, I pulled the masks off, and gave the dish one last treatment: a coat of matte clear on both the front and back. This adds to the diffuser effect, and gives the dish a “frosted” look that fits the authenticity we’re looking for against the studio model. If it were left gloss-clear as it comes out of the box, you’d also see the edges of the diffuser plate behind, and it would just look a little too cheesy.
And hour or two to let that coat dry, then canopy glue all around the edge, followed by a very gentle but very firm press to seat it properly in place. Set the whole thing aside, and let it firm up.
I’ve spent a lot of time detailing the edges around the ports and the forward rings, making sure there aren’t any stray paint errors and trying to smooth the surface before putting a gloss coat on it. I also made some extended wire leads for the thrusters and the dish light, so I have only two main circuits to worry about connecting up rather than five.
I also have taken a little time to test out some LEDs to see what brightness works best, and also to compare relative brightness of various types of light against one another. I eventually settled on a 1.7-candle brightness backlighting for the Raytheon effects that will be right behind the Star Fleet emblem on either side. I also picked up some conical light shields that gave it more of a “flashlight” look. I fixed those in place with some Milliput and blocked their rear with Black Seal. Not entirely certain it’ll show up at all still, but I have my hopes J.
The surface finally got to a satisfactory state, so the whole exterior got a hit with gloss coat (to facilitate placing decals), and once that’s dry (tomorrow afternoon) I’ll mask off the exterior and hit the dish with one more matte coat to reinforce the frosting, then into a baggie it will go J.
As soon as I was about to clear-coat the exterior, I noticed in my reference photos that the three “bulges” (port, starboard, and ventral) were painted silver in the studio model (see the reference photo above). Don’t know how that escaped me before, probably paying too much attention to the lights. The silver also had a neat grey design inside it (see photo). I don’t know if the decals I’ve got cover that, so I went ahead and used some Mig acrylic silver (the new metal lines are really great) on them after masking off the sides to ensure no “spillage.” A quick scrape of the excess off the top of the ring and all was well.
Next, masks were needed for the interior grey pattern. You can do it just as easily by going grey first and then laying down masks to shield against the silver, I went this way. BFD, no worries. I designed the masks with pencil on regular masking tape and sliced them out with a fresh razor blade. Snapped on some grey, and all is right in the world.
Finally, some gloss clear coat to seal it all up. Once it’s cured, I’ll bag it up and set it aside while I drum out the next piece of this big puzzle.
That’s all for this installment! See you soon…
Been a busy summer but managed to get enough time in to do some more modelling on my Prinz Eugen. Still learning on the old photo etch and the best ways to work this stuff but getting there for most parts. At 1/700 scale its crazy hard to bend some of the pieces of photo etch so didn’t use all the fine detail. Pleased with the painting though and the “Baltic camo” took a lot of effort – very slow to do and even so it did not all line up perfectly… Anyway have a look and post any comments.
Build Log – Part 11
It’s been a while since I’ve written this log, so my apologies go out to anyone who’s been waiting…hope it wasn’t too long.
When last we were here, the nacelles had just been wired, all the internals were light-blocked and fixed in place, and the nacelles were finally sealed up. This episode, we’re going to clean up the gaps in the model, and paint a few details here and there, along with sanding sections that need it.
First, before getting into the nitty-gritty, I protect the exposed lights (the front floodlamps and the rear anticollision strobe) and the wiring that connects all that lighting work. A nice bubble of Humbrol Maskol (or whatever your favorite masking product might be) over the small lights covers that. A little bit of masking tape around the warp crystal assembly on top protects that one. For the wiring itself, I made a small paper envelope just by folding some regular Xerox paper and taping it shut. I want to make sure those wires retain their labels and colors, so that envelope is pretty crucial.
At the front of the nacelles where the bussard collector mates with the two side halves there are some fairly significant ridges and gaps, and these require a bit of elbow grease to sand down into shape. Those were my first goals here, and with a bit of time and work they settled in. I puttied the gaps up with Tamiya fine putty, and re-sanded till smooth.
Next, the rear of the nacelles also had some rather ugly gaps, and the PE rear cover had a little teensy gap line all the
way around that needed addressing. I filled the gaps with Tamiya, scraping the excess away with the edge of a razor, and went at it with some 600-grit sandpaper to clean up the remnants. The outboard fins also needed some help, so I treated those the same way. Getting putty into that tight little angled corner on the top was probably hardest, and getting it cleaned and flush with the surface was a bit of a challenge, but a good razor knife can work wonders in this regard.
The tops of the nacelles were next, and these had some really serious ledging issues – not gaps, but places where the two parts simply don’t fit flush with one another. I used 120-grit sandpaper at first to get them as level as I could, then 600-grit to fine out the scratches from the prior sanding. Feeling for the ledge with fingertips generally reveals if you’ve done a good job here, and later when the hull coat is reapplied any fine ledging will be shown as the paint dries. As you’re doing this, it’s likely that you’ll end up sanding away your light-blocking if you did it on the outside, so mask off the clear parts and reapply as needed. It’s also good to remove the masks once you’ve done one or two coats and reapply masking afterwards, in order to avoid paint buildup in “mask lines” on particularly long-used masks.
Once I was satisfied that all the parts were smooth and matching their partners, I re-masked all the black areas and hit the whole thing with a fresh coat of white. Came out looking good, and what few spots remained that still needed smoothing became very evident. A little more sandpaper and another quick blast of white, and everything looked fine.
On the front of the engines to either side of the Bussards there is a marking in duck-egg blue that extends under the “chin” of each nacelle. On the kit parts, this is demarcated with a very shallow trench in the plastic (you can see it in the above pic). This trench didn’t exist in the film version, and although I left the trench on the thruster corner of the fin (that trench didn’t exist in the film either, but it’s so small that it won’t be noticeable), I decided to fill this trench in. I used “Perfect Plastic Putty” to do this job – it’s a water-soluble polymer putty that goes on white and dries pretty quickly. I roughed up the inside of the trenches with some folded sandpaper (to give the putty more surface to grip to) and applied with a fingertip, then cleaned off the excess with the back of a knife. Once it was dry, a little sanding and everything was totally smooth.
I then masked it up and airbrushed the duck-egg blue on the front, and also on the inside of the forward sections of the inboard and outboard chillers. I used shining silver on the band that stretches from inboard to outboard across the face of each nacelle. Once these were cleaned up and dried, I reversed my masking and went back to check the black chillers on both sides (masks are not always 100%, and some white did bleed through).
The fin tips where the thruster ports are got painted with some signal yellow by hand. I also tried to fill in the holes with gloss clear acrylic, but they refused to fill – the paint just kept draining away into the interior. I’ll try again later once everything is dry again.
In the instructions for the kit, those forward rounded sections of the chillers are supposedly copper, but in TMP they’re quite clearly black. I hand-painted them with matt black while doing my corrections on the regular chillers.
Finally, once everything was dry and clean, I applied a light gloss coat to the entire nacelle, all around. I’m not going to do the decals on these just yet. Decals will have to wait until all my subassemblies are done, because I have some special paints I want to use on the decals themselves before application, and it’ll require me to do the entire set to make sure I don’t miss any spots.
Meanwhile, once dry, I sanded away any discolorations, and went back to reapply a few spots where the duck-egg blue came out a little funky (something about Testors’ version of that color just doesn’t seem to want to go on evenly). A second zap with gloss coat, and then I’ll bag them and move on to the next parts.
That’s it for this episode – next go around we’ll start on the officers’ lounge and the recreation deck!
Welcome to Part 2, where I’ll cover the decaling and painting of the AMT Cadet Series of Star Trek: The Motion Picture. For those of you just tuning in, take a few moments and have a look at what I put up on the kit itself and its assembly, because there’s a lot of good to be said for this kit…and it’s best to approach this from the beginning. For those of you who already saw part 1, please accept my apologies for not getting this up sooner – life is a bit hectic, and I kept procrastinating. However, regardless of which way you arrived, glad to have you and let’s get on with the build and review!
The decals for this kit, as I mentioned previously, are really pretty – extreme levels of detail, they got my anticipation up to some extreme levels.
And much like Star Trek V, my hopes got raised to unhappy levels.
It’s not all bad news here, let’s get that straight – I’ve developed a very definitive love-hate relationship with these decals. I am amazed at the detail and the prettiness. I am severely disappointed in the film material that AMT chose to use for them.
Waterslides should be soft and flexible, and these are just way too stiff and brittle to be easy to work with. Based on the behavior of these decals, I’d have to push the “difficulty level” listed on the front of the kit from “2” to “3+” – basically at this point I consider every decal to be a separate part, and of particularly delicate nature.
Just so you know, some of these decals are tiny – the kind of tiny one usually associates with photo-etch parts or nightmares of insects crawling into your ears….that’s a regular-sized toothpick, by the way.
Cutting the backing is easy, and they absorb water quick, so within 30-60 seconds even the biggest of them can be slid off without a hassle.
Once off the backing, though, is where your trouble starts.
If you breathe on these the wrong way, they rip. Once they’re on the model, they don’t conform to surfaces that aren’t very flat. Both of these would be forgivable, because normally one could use solvents like Micro-Sol or Solvaset to soften them up and get them to lay flat.
Except these decals don’t respond to either Micro-Set or Solvaset. Gaaaarrrrr!
The instructions recommend slicing the larger ones into more manageable sizes, but I suspect someone in marketing at AMT realized what a tragedy these were and tried to cover their butts this way.
First, some how-tos…and by the way, if you’ve never done waterslides, then you might want to shelf this kit until you’ve done one or two others and feel comfortable dealing with difficult models.
Stuff You’ll need to Apply Waterslide Decals
In case you’re new to decals, here’s what you’ll need and/or want:
- A pan, bowl, or large mug with some clean warm water in it – this is your “bath”
- A large dish or plate with a paper towel on it – place your container from 1 on this and keep that paper towel damp
- A pair of stainless-steel tweezers to hold the decals while they soak
- A couple of soft paintbrushes (you’ll use these to push decals around and lift them up for repositioning)
- A few toothpicks/cocktail sticks (because the paintbrushes in 2 are likely to be too big for a few of these decals)
- A decal-setting solution like the Micro-Scale set (Micro-Set and Micro-Sol), Solvaset, or similar
- (optional) a spritz-bottle with some clean or distilled water
- …and specifically for this kit, you’re going to need canopy glue, or perhaps some white school glue watered down, and a very sharp hobby razor (preferably brand new blade).
How to Apply Waterslide Decals
The process is as follows – cut the decal you want free, grip it by the paper backing with the tweezers (make sure not to grip over the decal itself), and immerse the decal in the water tub from (1), above. If it’s large, the paper will “roll up” around your tweezers. It’s okay, this is normal.
While the decal is soaking, sprinkle a little water on the surface of the model (or spray with the bottle from (7)). Follow the instructions for your decal setting solution (some have you apply to the model before the decal, some have you do it afterwards, some both).
Once the decal is about ready the paper will “unroll” a bit (small ones won’t have rolled up, so ignore this for those). Take them out of the water and shake off the excess, or tap it lightly on the paper towel to draw away the extra water.
Test the ‘slide’ of the decal with a finger by gently giving it a tiny push and see if it moves easily on the paper. If it doesn’t, back in the bath with it for another 15-30 sec, then try again.
Oh, if it comes off in the bath, just fish it out on the paper backing, it’s ready.
Slide the decal off the backing and onto the model, where it should “float” freely on the already-wet surface. Once it’s in the right place, tear off a piece of your paper towel and use it to wick away excess fluid. As the fluid gets pulled away the decal will lock itself in place. If it locks in the wrong place, you can always put some more water back down on it and under it, which should loosen it up and let you move it a bit to get it back into position.
After it’s in the right place and locked, apply the last of your solvents according to their instructions, and let the model dry for a few hours, preferably overnight. After that, use a clear varnish or laquer (I use rattle-cans for this, but if you prefer an airbrush that’s perfectly fine too) to seal the model and protect the decals.
And now, back to the kit…
Under normal circumstances, I apply the decals for a model after painting it, but in this case, the paint for the Federation ships was purely detail work, so I did them decals-first. The Klingon I did as paint first like traditional models.
Since Reliant and Enterprise are very similar to one another on the decal front, let’s cover those together.
The big saucer decals were probably among the easiest to apply, as the saucer sections are almost flat – but due to the decals’ brittleness and stiff nature, you can still get rips and you’re likely to get a lot of ‘silvering’ in the applied decals. You’ll also get some overhang, and because of the stiffness of the decal material this overhang won’t lay flat at all. Just leave it there until it dries, and then use your hobby knife, dragging the blade backwards along the model edge (if you tried to carve it away you’d end up with a bunch of little cuts along the saucer – doing the backwards drag will strip away the overhang and not damage the model surface).
I’d ask that if anyone out there has found a decal solvent that works on these, I’d appreciate it if you got word to me about what you used.
I found it best to leave a section of the lower hull unapplied to give me a gripping place (because if I grabbed a spot where decals had been recently applied, I’d likely shred them or just pull them off with my fingers), and gave the decals a day or so before putting decals on the empty spots. In the case of Enterprise, that was the engineering hull, while Reliant’s engines made perfect handles.
Once the big plates were on, I went to the smaller detail decals – and this was where it paid off that I’d done a big version of both ships before, so I knew where most of the details belonged. For those of you who haven’t had such experience, this is where the box from the kit comes in very helpful.
The instructions, unfortunately, are not very helpful at all. You get an idea of which decals go onto what part of the model, but they don’t point to specifically where they belong. The film material becomes a real problem here, now, because most of the parts the small ones go on are curved and the small ones just sit flat on them rather than conforming.
This is where a few strategic cuts with the hobby knife (don’t drag the point, but rather position the knife on the decal and “roll” the blade over it if you can) can release the tension / pressure on the decal. If that’s not a suitable method, you will have to resort to a different method – in my case, I used canopy glue. The glue made the inner surface of the decal ‘tacky’ and when dry it would be clear as glass.
Even being careful like this, rips will still happen…and unfortunately, some of these decals are so small that a rip becomes almost impossible to repair.
The engine nacelle decals were also particularly challenging, because they were made to “wrap” the nacelles up. Unfortunately, this material is not soft enough to “wrap” anything, and rather prefers to stand out straight. Again, I applied canopy glue to the interior of them and then pressed them down onto the surface until it held fast.
Fig 42 These little sections were harder to deal with than the large ones – larger ones held themselves in place with glue more easily, these little buggers kept popping up.
The Klingon’s decals were almost all very small and easy to apply, with the exception of the large belly insignia and the forward torpedo launcher decoration – these are going onto very curved surfaces, and they don’t settle flat. In both cases, some canopy glue convinced the edges to settle and hold into place.
This ends the most challenging aspect of this kit…and a challenge it certainly was. In spite of these issues, once they’re done the models look really nice. I usually judge this from the perspective of a 1-meter distance view, and at a meter, most of the detail can be seen, but not entirely resolved. Because of this, some of the ripping fades away and the slight angular deficiencies also don’t appear.
Painting on the Federation ships was quite simple – a bit of duck-egg blue at the front of the engine nacelles, flat black slits for their “bussard collectors” also at the front of the nacelles. Touches of clear red and clear green on the sides of the saucers for navigation lights (red right, green left). Reliant also required some intermediate blue for the faces of its weapons modules, and some medium gray for the engineering trenches on top of the hull and the semi-triangular rear section beneath the hull (the instructions are pretty clear on these, at least).
The forward inboard and outboard ‘rounded’ sections of the intercoolers on the engine nacelles also got a dose of paint – for Enterprise I used flat black (which is a correction to the instructions, which wrongly say copper here), and copper for Reliant (which is correct in the instructions). Touch ups were done with flat white, even over the decals, since tiny bits of white there are already expected. I also used a dab of crystal clear blue where the warp crystal mounts appear (on top of the nacelles, just above the beginnings of the intercoolers).
The Klingon was more interesting to paint. To start with, I need to post a correction of myself here:
In part 1 of this review, I stated “The Amar from TMP and Kronos 1 from ST6 both were more of a metallic grey on-screen” – that was flatly wrong. I went back and reviewed the Klingon scene from TMP and The Undiscovered Country…in TMP, the Klingons are clearly a dark green with black and almost dusty-looking finish. Kronos in TUC was a lighter grey with brownish and possibly a very faint hint of green (and I blame this for the contamination of my memory of TMP J).
Since this is a TMP Klingon, I went back and ‘greened it up’. I re-sprayed the hull with a lighter green (what you use won’t matter in the details, so long as it’s a very light green with a little more brown than yellow you’re fine). I then highlighted the rear hull’s raised sections with olive drab (same stuff I use for allied armor WW2 models) by hand with a very fine brush, using the kit instructions as a general guideline of where to apply the darker color. I also used it on random partial bits of the ‘head’. After the olive, I used crystal clear green to highlight a very few spaces on top of the rear hull, the top ‘nubs’ along the neck of the ship, the cooling grids on the engineering rear hull, the cooling grids above the engine nacelles on each wing, and the collector grids on the leading edges of the wings.
Some dark grey then went into the grid at the bottom base of the neck, and the same color applied to the disruptor ‘bumps’ (there are two under the bridge housing on the head, two on the underside of the forward corners of the wings, and two just beneath the engineering section on top of the rear of the hull). A lighter grey went onto the forward grid ahead of the engineering section (top of the hull just behind the neck), leaving the two squarish raised portions in the original hull color. Next, a dab of crystal clear red went where the upper and lower strobes on the neck are, and I filled in the forward impulse manifold (the part that you see glowing red), and a little line of it for the bridge windows.
After these were done, the ship looked particularly garish and ugly – but I was expecting that. To blend the whole thing together I prepped a wash using 15 parts Vallejo dark grey wash, 10 parts water, three parts US Olive Drab, seven parts Gunship Green, and three parts crystal clear green. I didn’t concoct this recipe ahead of mixing it, by the way, that’s just what I ended up using. The idea was to make a nice wash that was a deep muddy green, and that mix is how I achieved it.
You can probably do it with a different mix. I hit the entire model with this mix, and that blended all the colors in very well – took away the stark contrast and gave the ship a really nice “used” look. I always felt Klingons weren’t afraid to dig in and fight, and their ships should show the look of that attitude.
Finally, I used some streaking grime enamel to put some weathering marks on the hull and head, streaking back from the leading edges. For those who haven’t used this sort of thing, it goes on as brownish lines where you want the “streaks” to be, and then with a clean brush dipped in thinner you lift away most of the streak, leaving behind a perceptible ‘streak’ of color that doesn’t overwhelm the paint scheme beneath it.
Once the paint was on, the decals followed, and it was all set!
This kit comes with no base for any of these models, which I think is something of a mistake. AMT didn’t have to go out on any big limbs to throw in a few simple bases for the ships, but they omitted them in the end. So you, the builder, get to decide how to mount them. The might make a good hanging display with some 2lb-test fishing line or magnet wire.
Personally, I’m going to pick up some cheap black picture frames from Ikea or somewhere and mount these on 2mm clear acrylic rods. I’ll print some background scenes from the films and perhaps backlight the pictures with a 9V battery and an LED, and have the ships extended “out of the picture” mounted on the acrylic rods.
Now that all three models in the kit are done, I have to say that they came out looking really, really good. I was very concerned with the quality of the decals when I started applying them, that they would be ruinous to the finish of the models, but the mistakes made at the factory were fixable, if not easily so. Compared to the time consumed in assembly / gluing / putty / primer, which was about 90 minutes, the decal work took about seven hours split into two sessions. Painting was about another hour.
Would I buy this kit, knowing what I know now? Yep, I think so. My daughter already asked me if she could have Reliant when I’m done, so I’d say it made an impression, and when I’m done with the picture-frame basing they’ll look really nice hanging on a wall (which is a nice change from a model kit that would otherwise have taken up more shelf-space). They’d also make really nice game pieces if you play Firestorm Armada or Star Fleet Battles, or some other tabletop space game.
Would I give this kit to a kid to build? Probably not, since the kid would be weeping after the decals fell apart. I’d probably lean more towards the 1:600 Enterprise or Klingon D-7. Pricing on those is similar to this, and those kits are more forgiving of error and mishandling. Fortunately, given the subject matter for this kit is almost forty years old (yeah, I know, don’t we feel freaking ancient now?), I don’t imagine children are going to be lining up and asking for this for Christmas.
Let’s finish this with a numeric scale judgment on how this kit worked out, and give it a judgment based on the combined aspect score. I’ll give each aspect a 1-10 (10 being best):
INSTRUCTIONS (clearly written, easy to follow?): 7
I would have given this an 8 or 9, but the instructions on the small decals were very insufficient, and the manufacturer’s claim that this was a snap-together kit on the box front was, I think misleading.
PARTS FIT AND ASSEMBLY (Were the parts cast well? Not a ton of flash? Not so many gaps?): 9
Parts in this kit were generally very well fitted, there was almost no flash to deal with, and what gaps did exist were easily dealt with.
DECALS or ORNAMENTATION (What decals were in the box? Were they complete for finish of the model? Did they fit well and were they easy to work with?): 7
For all of my bitching about the material, they were very complete, and extremely well designed. The material they were made of, however, knocked the score to seven from what would have been a solid TEN. AMT, take note of that.
So…a total score of 23 out of 30, not bad! Average score is 7.66 out of 10, which is respectable, and I’d say definitely worth the cash.
Thanks for tuning in – and I’m looking forward to hearing your experiences in constructing these three little gems. Send your comments in!
I mounted the Klingon on an inexpensive 5×7 picture frame today – she looks really good, but I’ll have to re-update the photo once I get some sunlight tomorrow. Decided to forgo the lighting, this works just fine. Here’s what I did:
- Printed out a pic of the V’ger plasma weapon in flight, screenshot from TMP, set it in the frame.
- Drilled a 2mm hole in the Klingon’s wing to accomodate the mount.
- Drilled a matching 2mm hole in the frame side to accept the mount.
- Using 2mm acrylic rod, I cut a piece to the right length and stuck them together on it.
- I then softened the rod with a heat gun (use the fine emitter to avoid heating up the model) and bent it to about the right angle to position the ship.
Did the same thing using an 8×10 photo frame for Reliant and Enterprise to set them up at the beginning of the battle in the Mutara Nebula…at some point it might be worthwhile to go back and re-jigger the pictures in the background to make them more pronounced, but for now this will do :).
I think economics can often be viewed best through the lens of biology (blame the undergrad degree) – particularly ecological studies. Money is the element upon which we all feed – upon which companies, countries, and all of human society feeds, for that matter.
And many want far more than they can reasonably consume.
This is particularly valid at this period in time, where many companies have grown to be larger than most nation-states, and have appetites to match.
Countries, nation-states, previously had habits of unifying into larger collectives in order to facilitate trade and better defend against or avoid wars entirely – the United States, for example, was formed for these reasons. The EU was formed for these reasons. This behavior has had the fortunate side effect of providing a useful defense against predatory corporations whose goal is to extract as much money from the system as they possibly can in order to benefit their (extremely few) stakeholders. It’s quite obvious when one looks at the predatory and in fact quite lethal practices that large companies have put on parade in countries such as:
- India (where Dow managed to kill 25,000+ with unsafe practices)
- USA (where BP’s oil leak has ruined the entire Gulf fishing industry, Wal-Mart abuses their workers and refuses to pay them a living wage)
- China and Bangladesh (where slave labor and child labor are endemic)
- the Ivory Coast (where Nestle uses slave labor to harvest cocoa)
- Nigeria (where various oil companies have ruined the Niger delta)
- Indonesia (where ExxonMobil employs a private army to protect its pipelines, said army also rapes, murders, and pillages the countryside, using Exxon equipment to dig mass graves for its victims)
- …and the list goes on.
Reviewing these travesties, it is quite clear that corporate interests are not human interests.
Which brings us to “Brexit,” the referendum on whether the UK should exit the EU.
Promoters of the exit strategy who focus on the economic factors say things like “It hasn’t helped us” or “they need us more than we need them”, that it “puts the UK at the mercy of Germany,” or that it is “destroying national sovereignty”. All of these are weak, at best – and stupid at worst.
- “It hasn’t helped us.” Yeah, as a matter of fact it has. The lack of tariffs across the board in the EU has opened the entire continent up for british goods, enabling companies like Marks & Spencer, Mothercare, and others to expand into new markets. Mom and Pop shops benefit too, as internet sales are enabled to ship without tariff to an enormous quantity of new buyers. Trade within Europe has risen by 55 percent since joining the EU.
- “They need us more than we need them” – this is just stupid. The UK’s manufacturing strength is a fraction of what it once was. Its workforce is dominated by unskilled labor, what IT workforce it has is underpaid and underskilled (and the best members of it end up working for banks, where they aren’t innovating anything but instead helping to cripple the UK economy further). The countries that trade their goods to the UK now will continue to do so long after an exit, and the tariff costs will simply be passed on to the consumer.
- “The UK is at the mercy of Germany” – The EU is not the solitary purview of Germany. There are a great many states here, and political unity is hard to come by. Germany in particular is in a weak leadership position as it stands, weaker still since its idiotic austerity measures have been demonstrated to have injured recovery efforts from the 2008 crash rather than helped. Furthermore, as an individual who has lived in both countries, even if this protest were true, the UK could get a great deal of benefit from following Germany’s lead for a while. Notice that this argument is in direct conflict with #2, above. This is usually a good sign that conspiracy theory bullshit is afoot.
- It “destroys national sovereignty” – this is just bullshit. This argument is so farcical and ephemeral that it can simply be dismissed out of hand. It literally has zero evidence behind it, no facts at all – and hence, there is nothing to refute. It’s just tinfoil-hat batshittery.
Other reasons, not tied directly to economics: there are as many of these as there are Brexit supporters. However, they are largely driven by demagoguery similar to that espoused by Donald Trump in the United States – fear and hatred of people not from the UK. It always boils down to some various flavor of “we don’t have a choice, we have to accept any murderer rapist or child molester from the EU,” mixed with a foment of anti-Muslim bullshit that’s frothed up since the Syrian refugee crisis.
Let me say this – of all the countries in the EU that I’ve visited, and those in which I’ve lived (four of them now), the UK, surprisingly, has been the most vividly racist nation of them all. It’s remarkable, and strange. When I first opened a bank account on moving to the UK, I counted nine different languages in use in the bank office. But in dealing with the people there, everyone was intensely concerned with what nationality or race everyone else belonged to – and if you weren’t of the chosen special few, you were an outsider. Each race had its place above the other.
And this built-in trigger is very easy to play on – particularly by less-than-scrupulous “news” organizations, such as FOX News.
Now don’t get me wrong, I think the UK gets its treatment of Muslims insanely wrong. However, it does so in the context of getting EVERY dumbass religion in the pipeline insanely wrong – and this is largely due to the UK’s fear of “offending” someone. The UK would rather shut down free speech and freedom of dialogue, would rather see people injured, would rather see children brought up intellectually and emotionally crippled, than to see someone get their fee-fees hurt. Well fuck you, MPs and Lords, you’re all a bunch of panty-twisted oxygen-wasters on that front.
This treatment of oddball religions only fuels the right-wing nutters, racists, and other undesirables’ fears.
Which makes FOX News – Rupert Murdoch’s media empire – very happy.
So what we have here is a series of easily-played-upon fears and catch-phrases that stir up irrational racism and fear, being used by media tools in the hands of corporations that would like nothing better than to have the UK exit the EU and revert to being a small, easily-managed nation with an easily-bribed leadership.
Once the exit is complete, and the UK is no longer protected by the umbrella of the EU, prices on consumer goods – everything from food to televisions – go up. Access to EU employment markets becomes harder – as will the ability to move cross-borders when one retires. All those geriatrics living in Spain? Guess what, they won’t have rights to live there any longer – and they’ll be coming home to live off their days on the NHS rather than on Spain’s buck. I won’t even speculate on what sort of retaliatory actions the EU may impose on the UK if things don’t end cheerfully (and divorces rarely do).
All these things spell a weak UK (weaker still once Scotland says “go f*** yourself” and leaves the UK to join the EU). A vulnerable, alone UK. And of course the news agencies will blame immigrants. Blame the EU. They’ll keep the population focused on each other, ripping each other down; focused on outsiders; focused on anything that isn’t the blade they’re twisting in the UK’s ribs.
Back to the biological metaphor…Komodo Dragons are especially insidious – they’ll single out a target, bite it, and then follow it for days as infection and venom sink in, making it easier to take. When lions hunt, they will tease out a single animal from the herd.
Because when an animal is alone, weak, and not defended by its herd, it’s far easier to kill.
And when the UK leaves the protection of its herd…
Hello everyone! This entry is a first for me – a sponsored kit review on behalf of a hobby vendor. I’m doing periodic reviews for the company Models4Hobby.co.uk, and they’ve sent me this kit for review and build. A copy of this review will also appear on their site. I’m adding this note here in the interest of full disclosure, and in the future as I add other reviews that are from their lineup, I’ll include a similar header. Meanwhile, on with the review!
AMT’s Cadet Series of Star Trek: The Motion Picture…this kit is actually three separate kits in one, each a 1:2500 scale model of the refitted USS Enterprise, the USS Reliant (from Star Trek: The Wrath of Khan), and the Klingon K’Tinga-class battlecruiser that appears in both films.
For starters, each ship is supplied on its own sprue, while the decals for all three are on a single unified waterslide sheet. The decals are die-cut, which reduces the work of separating them when you need them.
Once assembled, these are also pretty small – very convenient if you live with limited shelf space, and actually if you play tabletop games that need a Star Trek theme, these would make some amazing game pieces. I do a little Flames of War from time to time, and if I had a spaceship game I played often I’d really consider using these as units on the board. They look that good, really.
Unlike many Star Trek models, these teeny models don’t really have a lot of aftermarket accessories – for instance, there’s no photo-etch available for these, to my knowledge. It would be possible to light these (though difficult), but you’d have to run your own wiring harness as there isn’t any 3rd-party option available.
The box itself is worth a little mention, as it has plenty of nice artwork both front and back along with some basic information on each ship. Pics on the box are useful for painting guidelines, as well as image references for how the kits should look when completed.
Inside the box you’ll find a one-sheet instruction set, some marketing flyers, and a one-page decal sheet.
The assembly instructions are quite simple (which really should be expected, as these tiny kits only have nine to eleven pieces each (9 for the Klingon, 10 for Enterprise, and 11 for Reliant), while the decal and painting instructions are considerably more complex.
The Klingon will be the easiest of the bunch to both assemble and decorate, since its exterior is mostly uniform in nature and the decals are more of an accent.
The Enterprise and Reliant, on the other hand, in the end will be almost entirely wrapped in decals, and as a result will be a bit more complex to handle.
The decal sheet is given to extreme detail, including full multi-tone Aztec patterning for both Reliant and Enterprise, so despite their final size they are going to look really hot.
The sprues of the kits are easy to handle, even for myself (I am six feet tall, with correspondingly large hands, and I had no discomfort dealing with the parts in this kit). They were laid out cleanly, with plenty of space between parts and very little crowding. This is pretty important given the size of these parts, as they are fairly fragile.
The Enterprise sprue had quite a bit of flash on it (possibly the mold has aged a bit), but none of it was any great challenge to remove – dragging a razor across the part and then a quick brush with some 600-grit sandpaper took care of it all very quickly. The Klingon sprue had just a little flash, barely noticeable, and the Reliant was completely clean.
All that said, I think it really deserves note that the amount of detail on these tiny kits is just spectacular – even though the saucer sections of the Federation hulls are smooth, everywhere else the detail on these is just amazing. I was really psyched to see how good these looked.
It’s also worth mentioning that all three have printed copyright text on the inside of the hulls. It wouldn’t be anything to talk about except for the two white models (the Federation ships) – the text shows through to the outside. I’m concerned that this will also show through the decals, so my decision here will be to prime and paint these before decaling.
Technically, this is a “snap-together” kit, with no tools necessary – and yes, if you have no tools around, you could probably get this done with perhaps just your hands and a pair of scissors to deal with the flash and the decals.
However, as with all things, you’ll get better results by using proper tools. That said, you won’t need a lot of them. Here’s my list of what you will need, and what you will want (I will link each one to example products on this site where available):
A razor knife of some kind (Xacto or other)
Wire cutters or sprue snips
Poly cement (I’m using Humbrol here, but Revell and probably dozens of others
make good model glues)
Model clamps (many different varieties are available)
Gloss-coat in a rattle-can or for an airbrush
Paints (instructions indicate need for Pearl Wihte, Light Grey, Medium Gray, Copper, Medium Blue, Light Cream, Dark Olive, and Olive Green, if you want to go precisely by the book here).
Decal-setting solution (I use Micro-Set and Micro-Sol, but there are other vendor versions, like Revell Decalsoft and so on that also do a good job)
A good flat-sided file
White PVA glue (same kind kids use in school)
Round toothpicks (called “cocktail sticks” in the UK)
Metal putty tool(s) – you can usually get some cheap dentist’s tools to work with this, but the back side of a razer knife will suffice for this kit.
Beer, coffee, or whatever your favorite beverage for working may be. Probably not hard liquor, since you’re going to be working with sharp tools!
The assembly of this set of ships is very straightforward, as evidenced by each one getting about a third of a page of instructions to accomplish. Each one has a few small quirks, so I’ll detail them as we go. First, however, the overall nature of the kit needs to be examined.
It is labeled a “snap-together” kit, as I said earlier. This, while technically true, will result in ships that fall apart at the slightest nudge, and you will not be happy with them if you treat this as a glue-free model. Specifically, the Klingon’s impulse cooling manifolds will pop off, as will the Reliant’s roll-bar, and the Enterprise’s engine nacelles simply do not enjoy a solid fit. If you look at them funny, they will pop off.
So that said, pick up a vial/tube/whatever of good poly cement. I’d recommend one with one of those thin metal applicator tubes (I use Humbrol and Revell brands here, but there are other manufacturers who make stuff just as good, and you can find them here).
For each one, remove the parts (carefully!) from the sprues and trim away any excess flast or bits. Before you use the glue, put the kit together friction-fit first to get a feel for how the parts fit with one another and to make sure you get it right. After that you can disassemble the kit and reassemble it while gluing. Some recommend giving parts a bath in soapy water to remove mold-release agents, but I didn’t bother, and didn’t notice any trouble with this.
Probably the easiest of the builds, this one goes together very simply. Assemble the forward “neck” and then attach the command deck to it. Press the upper and lower sections of the rear hull together, and then attach the neck to the front. To avoid using excessive force (which leads to broken parts), trim down the tab that inserts into the rear hull a little bit. Once attached, the engine nacelles and impulse manifolds can be attached. You’ll probably need to clamp the hull pieces together while the glue dries in order to avoid excessive gaps (it will still have a couple of small ones, but a clamp while drying will prevent it from being unmanageable).
Press the two saucer halves together and set aside. Next take the engineering hull halves and lay them out next to one another. Set the engine pylons into their slot on one of the halves and then press the other half over it to lock it in place. The deflector dish can now go on. For each engine nacelle, press the two halves together and then slip over the tab on the appropriate pylon. Lastly, the saucer can be pressed onto the neck (might take a little wiggling). The engineering hull required a clamp while it dried to avoid a large gap.
This one is the most complex of the three, with several three-part subassemblies to deal with. First, attach the rear face of the main hull to the lower hull and then press the upper half down to fix them in place. Determine the correct engines for each side (the ‘fin’ at the rear of the nacelle faces outward) and the correct pylon for each side and lay them out to either side of the model. Notice that each pylon has a small injection-mold stub on the flat space where the pylon will need to snug up against the hull – make sure to carefully trim those off before assembling. The engines clamp shut over the angled tab at the bottom of the pylon, you can’t just slip the engines on like you did with the Enterprise or the Klingon. The main hull required a pair of clamps while it dried to keep it together.
Once the engines/pylons are assembled, set them aside and press the top of the roll bar into the main piece to assemble it. Next, the final and hardest part of this assembly is up – the pylons each go onto their respective side of the ship, and while the glue is still soft, the roll-bar needs to be placed into the sockets on top of the two pylons and positioned correctly. Hold it steady for a few minutes to let the glue set.
Once the three are put together, set them aside for an hour or so to let the glue cure.
Despite using clamps, a few gaps still resulted in the build of these little buggers – the Klingon had a fair-sized gap in the top of its rear hull as well as a few smaller ones around; Reliant had a bit in the roll bar and on the rear of the main hull, and Enterprise’s neck and rear hull both had some minor gaps.
The smaller ones were easily dealt with using PVA glue – just get a few drops and mix with water (4 parts glue to 1 water), then apply a little on a toothpick to fill in the small gaps. For the larger ones (top of the Klingon hull, Reliant’s engine pylons where they meet the hull) use Plasto or something similar.
Once dry, the fillers should be sanded where they appear rough. This will probably require two putty-sand-prime cycles to make them clean enough.
Before doing any painting/priming, make sure to wash your hands and wipe off any excess stuff on the surface of the models.
I primed all three models – the Klingon in a deep green and the Federation ships in a dark grey. The green I was hoping would ‘bleed through’ a bit to show up in the light grey I would use as a base coat. The grey was there to blend out the show-through of the printed text inside the parts of the Fed models. In hindsight I should have just hit them all with dark grey and been done with it, but whatever. Primer serves two main functions here – first to give the final paint a better grip on the model, and second to show you places that need sanding/filling.
Most of the time you see Klingons referred to as being green for their hulls – this was from the studio model of the Original Series D-7, which had a metallic/pearl green hull. The Amar from TMP and Kronos 1 from ST6 both were more of a metallic grey on-screen, and even on screen the Original Series ship didn’t show off as all that green in hue. I’ll do a little greenish wash on the hull coat later to give it a little hue, but not so much that it veers dramatically away from the screen appearance.
I used some spare sprue lengths and a bit of blue-tack (mine isn’t blue, it’s white, but that seems to be the prevailing name – any sort of sticky gum will do the job) to make something I could hold them with while I sprayed. Once one side was dry, flip it and do the other (making sure none of the tacky stuff stayed on the ship).
After the primer was dry, I hit the two Federation ships with some Tamiya Fine White primer as a base coat for the hull, and the Klingon got a light grey coat.
A note on the use of paints – you need to have patience when waiting for them to dry. It’s not just drying that’s needed – it’s curing, too. Paint may feel dry to the touch, and even be easy to handle, but extended pressure or handling can reveal that the paint isn’t quite done yet, and you can give yourself a real headache by handling them too soon. Give Tamiya paints at least two or three hours to set before extended handling, preferably let them sit overnight. I made a mistake with the Reliant and it messed up some of my hull coat. Took a lot of sanding and repainting to get it to look right again.
Once the hull coats were dried and fully cured, I applied a gloss-coat over all the surfaces to prep them for decals (decals go on best against a glossy surface – matte or even satin finishes can grab and rip decals). I have some automotive clear coat I use, but in hindsight I don’t recommend this for these models – it works fine for big stuff 1/35 scale, but for these little guys it just goes on a little too thick. Rattle-can gloss coat from Tamiya or Vallejo would probably be just fine.
While I let the gloss-coat dry, I’ll take a break here. Next installment, I’ll cover painting and decals on these kits, which is probably going to be a bit harder than the few minutes it took to assemble them.
Quick update on the Graf Spee build – after many days of working on the photo etch rails and the general building got things to a point I was ready to finish the model. Have to say that this trumpeter kit was amazing. Most of my experience was from 25+ years ago and the quality of the kit is outstanding compared to the old Matchbox days! I added some standard photo etch KM rails and rather than having a set made it much less pressure on “needing” to complete them so I have only done a few on this model. A few rails later and I have a good idea how to stick them best and enjoying it on my next model the Prinz Eugen.
The last pic is with the base hull of the Prinz Eugen and amazed how much bigger it is! So small – no wonder they ran from a the 3 British cruisers as it cant be much bigger than our lights were…. until I get the white ensign British cruisers at 1/700 wont be sure:)
Next posts will be all Prinz Eugen in 1940/1941 “Baltic camo” – roughly like this!
FLEET BUILD LOG 1
I have recently joined Theo here to post about all things gaming and modeling. my main focus will be on the modeling side for now though. So I thought I would put up my first post with an intro to a series of projects that I have kicked off to build German warships from WWII. following the same process as the Germans did I have started small to re-learn the basics and will then move onto heavier units once I more comfortable with modelling at this scale.
So to give you the summary I have bought –
So far i have kicked off with the Z-39 and Graf Spee, completing the Graf Spee recently (more pics to follow) and moving on to the Prinz Eugen. Having a lot of fun but I have to tell you photo etch in 1/700 scale is crazy to use. Hand rail in particular are the bane of my modelling but getting better ship by ship.
Order of construction is
Spee – Eugen – Bismarck with bits of the DD along the way
I will keep you upto date with lots of pic as I go!
I’ve been playing WoWs for about a year now, it has really eclipsed “World of Tanks” for me (I still enjoy WoT a lot, but until Wargaming actually does something about the aimbots there, I’m not going back). You can find me in WoWs under the name “Azrael_Ashemdion” (surprise). There are two playstyles now in WoWs that are really fun for me, Ranked and Team Battles. For the sake of my clan and my own sanity, I put together a guide on how to fight these battles and not be a donkey :).
For your enjoyment, then: